The three acts of surfing

Each of my surfing sessions can be divided into three acts so far.

1
It begins with me throwing myself into the wild west coast sea.
The waves would then start to beat me up, giving me rounds and rounds of powerful poundings.
It is not difficult to see how the current can easily drag you out and have its way with you, so it's only reasonable that my mind is focused on staying alive.

2
The most distinct sign, is that I'd suddenly have an awareness of my body moving through the water against the waves with a sense of relaxation. Everything seems to become natural, and this is where the fun begins. I begin to notice small improvements in my techniques, like how to move with the waves, how to jump up and balance on the board.

3
Get exhausted and go home with some bruises and a sense of satisfaction.